![]() ![]() Actually the Module is not the cheapest repair since the module is around $1000.00, But if it is the problem you could get a used module with the correct part number from a junk yard or BBA reman. MB doesn't even offer the old 722.6 trans fluid anymore since we could use 722.9 fluid in both. Okay, Well this is how it works you could use 722.9 trans fluid in 722.6 but you cant you use 722.6 fluid in the new 722.9 trans. You could reset trans adaptions but you would need a SDS/DAS to do that. When replacing the module you would have to perform an initial start up procedure but since your not replacing it you don't have to do that. If you have an external leak at the Trans connector on the transmission you could replace that. You could just clean it out with electrical cleaner. You will find fluid at the Trans round electrical connector on the transmission but don't be alarmed they all have fluid in them. As for the TCM you could inspect the connector for signs of fluid but I would bet you wont find anything wrong with it or find fluid. I would start there for sure and get some new fluid and filter. So you said that you didn't use MB approved trans fluid. The Conductor plate sits above your valve body and is usually the main cause of all shifting problems unless your clutches are slipping (you will defiantly know if your clutches are slipping). Most of the time what happens is when you have shifting problems (or limp home mode) its your input and output speed sensors shorting out in the conductor plate due to the clutch material in the fluid. At the dealer we only replace the Electronic Transmission control unit if it has a fault for the control unit being defective. Their price is relatively high, starting with the fob key that is the cheapest and ending with the central electronic circuit that is the most expensive.Well what it sounds like to me is your Conductor plate above your valve body. Check again if the problem is solved otherwise you need to check each of the modules separately to a specialist,Įach of the modules ca be reset and it might solve the problem otherwise you will have to purchase the defective module. ![]() If casually there is a connector that has no +12v pin then it might be the problem try to find out where the +12v should be and create a fused (5-15 ampere) bridge and connect it to where it should be. Connect a the black wire from voltmeter to car's chassis that is the ground (-) and check with the red wire of the voltmeter to every pin of every connector. You need to assure that all the above modules are supplied with a +12volt line that is usually the first pin in each connector. Special tools are required like a multimeter 12volt indicator screwdrivers to remove covers etc), Next step is to check connectors, and cables (not an easy task for non experts. The first step is to check all the fuses are ok, if not replace all the burned with new and check if the problem persists. If only one of them has a problem, the key will refuse to turn. steering locker 4 the central electronic circuit module. The electronic ignition switch (eis, the place where you put your key in) 3. There are 4 electronic and/or mechanical modules that are synchronized for everything to work ok: 1. ![]()
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